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Brakes - Fitting Discs and Required Ancillaries

What you actually need for the disc/drum conversion is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the steering arms, top and bottom swivel-pins, CV joint, and flexible brake pipes at the subframe - that’s it. There are, however, a number of ancillaries to consider.

Basics

Basics Fitting discs designed for the Mini is easy enough. Just make sure you use CV gaiters for the disc-brake set-up - these have a different bellows shape to stop the gaiter rubbing the inside of the hub. The drum type will rub, then split, shedding grease all over the place. Moly grease is mighty mucky stuff to deal with and doesn't assist braking at all! A tip for racers - to stop the gaiters over-expanding when getting very hot and imitating the aforementioned, put either a decent sized split pin or (my favorite) a piece of very small bore pipe - as in the type supplied with WD40 aerosols, etc. - under the retaining strap on the drive shaft. This allows air to escape and return,

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Brakes - Pipe End Flares

One day I'm going to have to try and assess just how it is that every now and again I get a 'run' on folks asking me about a specific problem. These problems exist all year round, year in, year out. And said problems crop up throughout the year. But - every now and then there's a blood-rush on a certain issue. Just recently that issue has been brake pipe ends. The bit that seals the pipe off against it's relevant fitting. There are two types of end - male and female. The male end is convex in shape, the female concave. The male end is used where a male pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - that's a nut with an external thread - that will be screwed into a female fitting such as found in a wheel cylinder or master cylinder. The female end is used where a female pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - a nut with an internal thread - and will be mated to a male fitting such as found on rear flexible brake pipes. Under no circumstances should you mix the too up as the brake p

Brakes - Rear brake bias adjustment

When altering the front brake set-up away from the standard installation, it invariably alters the amount of rear brake bias needed to re-balance the cars brake balance.

The problems start occurring when folk graft alternative brake set-ups onto the front of their Minis. Be this 7.5" discs onto a previously drum-braked model, or going from current standard disc set-ups to one of the 4-pot varieties. The question then is 'what bore size rear wheel-cylinders do I need?' Unfortunately this isn't straightforward. Actually, that's not strictly true - more on this later. The pressure developed in the lines determines brake effectiveness - aside from disc size, pad type, co-efficient of friction, etc. that is. Understanding this may assist in choosing which way you should go for your particular set-up.

The basic facts you need to remember when dealing with brake pressures is how they are affected by the components you use.

For use when converting cars which already have hubs fitted that hold calipers except 997/998 Cooper which will also require larger Constant velocity joints and Timken bearings, If you have brake shoe front drum brakes a kit C-AJJ4029A is available which contains all parts required..

The contents of this kit ...

After a major engine rebuild carried out by MED in Leicester designed to give a stronger bottom end with a fully specified crankshaft and their special high torque camshaft (STR 930) to make the car more driveable.

The S rods were smoothed, polished and whole assembly balanced giving a very usable power band from 3000 to 7000, but capable of revving to 8000 safely.

Conister Trust Historic Manx Rally - 28th to 30th July 2005

As this would be our first visit to the island, Anthony and I decided to take advantage of the two pre-event recce days on the preceding weekend, flying out from Birmingham and doing the Stage recce in a hired 1.4 Seat Leon

The weather was sunny and dry on the Saturday and Sunday and over a busy two days...

After a monumentally busy start to the year work-wise, I made a concerted effort to get the car sorted to get back out there and have some fun. My plans for stripping the car back to the shell and re-checking all the suspension alignment starting from the shell and subframes went to hell in a hand cart, so it was a case of building an engine and doing my best to re-sort the suspension geometry to try and suss this weird and inconsistent handling ....

Mini Production dates

We have tried to get together as complete list as possible to show all the models made from 1985 onwards, hopefully this will help identify those cars that have been modified over the years. If you have any information that you know is correct or anything that you think is not right please let us know.

Me & My Moke

About six years ago I bought a small bungalow in the province of Catalunya Spain close to the French border. After a year or so my next door neighbour told me that in his garage was a Californian Mini Moke that he had owned since 1982.

I had been dreading my home race for a few reasons, one I did not feel that I had the car to win it this season and the second was we have been so busy with caravans at Snetterton Speed Shop, hiring Caravans out as well as selling them, I had not given much time to my Mighty Minis as they deserved.

Our customers car is a 1962 Austin Mini, which originally cost £250.00 and now looks absolutely standard and truly immaculate. Only when you look inside do you realise it is a car with a difference. Richard has already restored two Coopers to a very high standard and his criterior on the Twini was to use as many secondhand production car parts as possible to keep the cost down.

In 1988, a humble 1973 Mini 1000 was minding its own business somewhere in London, when along came a young Mini freak called Jason King, who wanted to change it for ever, and make it famous.

Jason persuaded the owner to take £450 for the car, and then proceeded to throw £12,000 worth of presents at it for the next 3 years. Every minute of Jason’s spare time was spent working on his new car and every minute of his working time was spent looking for spares.

Last year at Willow springs, California the gauntlet was thrown down by Mini Mania, USA, to see which was superior. The front wheel drive saloon, or the rear drive sports car.

When these cars were new there were very few organised races for them to compete against each other and the Sprite MK1 or Frogeye as we know it, because of its headlights mounted on the bonnet, only had a 948cc engine while the early Minis only had 848cc or 1275cc of the Cooper “S”. Times have changed and most Frogeyes...

Having built one Cooper ‘S’ for Timo Makinen to use in Historic Rallying, in which he won two International Rallies, I decided to build another one with more power and less weight than the previous one.

One lesson I learnt the hard way building the first car, was that a reliable source of new parts with in-built quality, especially where obsolete parts were being remanufactured, was essential. Mini Spares of London...

A strange choice, you might think, for inclusion in Mini Tech News but, surprisingly the GTM has more Mini parts on it than the Elf! (because the Elf is nearly all space frame).

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